Dark, Ethereal Beauty Exists in Jason Wu's Fall 2024 Ready-to-Wear Collection

His "Nocturne" collection, with its exquisite craftsmanship and opulent deconstruction, seemed to be a sister collection to his earlier work. However, it was also an homage to his own development as a designer of evening and sportswear, drawing influence from cartoonist Arthur Rackham and his fall 2009 collection.

"I love fairy tales, and that show looked like one, but this one's more subversive." It's been really intriguing since 2009. "Everyone should be lucky to be put in a box because it means you're known for something," is a saying I often employ. We all need to change, though, and I've changed a lot. He said, "I wanted to go back and discuss something from a long time ago.
With an emphasis on luxurious sportswear that is "deconstructed," inside-out constructions, hand-drawn flora and fauna themes, and "glamour, glamour," his fall collection demonstrated this.

The first piece in the show, a long, drapey gray jersey dress with outside seam detailing, set the tone right away. It was a tribute to Geoffrey Beene, one of the two renowned American designers Wu included in his collection.
For Wu, who backstage expressed his unwavering passion for presenting in New York and for American designers, the allusions were both personal and deliberate. "As we produce exquisite clothing here in New York, we require recognition." We do more than just create ads. "I believe that American couture exists," he remarked.

Fall's architecturally draped corset gowns, his own take on Charles James moments, in versions of silk-spun cotton (with a hint of linen) and metallic satin in muslin-hued tones and rust tones, certainly meet the bill. Similarly, hand-shredded fil fine organza dresses that recalled healing bark were sensual and appealing.

Wu complemented "old school" with opulent partnerships with up-and-coming "new school" designers, such as the velvety, engulfing cashmere knits of Crush Collection and the gilded jewelry of Sauer (which also marked Wu's first footwear collaboration with Gianvito Rossi).
Wu claimed to have spent three months developing the fabrics, which ranged from delicate floral embroidered sheer origami tops to printed and layered organza midis, all tucked between raw edge suiting and padded luxurious puffer-meets-opera jackets.
Overall, it was a collection full of melancholy, dark beauty that definitely merits a closer, second glance.